Luang Prabang is still not mainstream to the luxury travel crowd – but this stunning, laid-back Buddhist town with a strong over-lay of French style should be. Only about an hour’s flight from Bangkok and but a million miles away from the bustling Thai capital.
La Residence Phou Vao, Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang was the traditional royal capital of Laos before the French came, and to this day has all the style of panache which the capital, Vientiane, lacks. Located in the hills the town is small and easy to walk around and is framed by the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. If you stay at La Residence Phou Vao you will have a unique view across the pretty town and the surrounding rivers: La Residence is the only hotel on Phau Vao – the prominent hill overlooking the town.
View from La Residence
La Residence makes the most of the spectacular view with the central infinity edged pool appearing to float above the river. At night the Buddhist stupa (temple) on top of Mt Phousi on the far horizon is the focal point as guests relax by the candle lit pool. This being Laos – the hotel pays for the stupa’s electricity bill. La Residence’s main restaurant offers diners the option of eating inside or outside next to the pool. For the special romantic night choose the 500 candles dinner where couples are set up at a garden or terrace table adorned with bowls of white irises and surrounded by hundreds of tea lights in the Spirit Gardens, all designed to enhance the 10-course degustation menus. For those preferring few candles and courses there is an excellent menu which combines both traditional Lao dishes such as sticky rice and French favorites.
500 Candles Meal, La Residence
The boutique La Residence only has 36 rooms all of which are bigger than average featuring a separate sitting area, balcony furnished with lunges, a big bed swathed with mosquito netting (for show) and a bathroom including a terrazzo bath and double basins. There is of course the obligatory spa which features a plunge pool and a wide selection of scrubs, rubs and treatments all set in small pavilions dotted throughout the forest. The steep walk back up to the bar will make you feel you’ve earned your gin and tonic!
As engaging as the La Residence sounds – guests would be foolish not to get out and explore the town of Luang Prabang on foot – the mixture of backpacker bars, Lao silk shop and illegal (and cheap) fake brand name goods is truely unique.
La Residence guest room
