Machu Pichu has been well-established on the backpacker tourist circuit but only in the last few years has the 5 star luxury version of this fascinating place become available.

Machu Picchu is a remote and special place and you can only admire the Inca’s for their good taste in location, location, location! The Inca ceremonial city was always a piece of exclusive real estate, with probably the priests and leaders actually ever living in the city, the workers housed elsewhere.

Today very little has changed, although there are now several options on how to arrive at Machu Picchu there is in fact only one hotel to stay at: the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge And there will always be only one option to stay at the site. There is no room for another hotel, and the Lodge in fact dates from the 1950’s. The Sanctuary Lodge was extensively renovated in 2001 and is now a comfortable 5 star property. The backpackers? Oh the stay down the hill about 20 minutes away in Aguas Calientes which boasts a host of middle range and cheaper accommodations.

The two main ways to arrive at Machu Picchu: either walk the Inca Trail which take four to six days or come by train: preferably the very comfortable luxury Haram Bingham train from Cuzco.

The Sanctuary Lodge is not a huge property with only 31 rooms, 12 of them, with an amazing view of the mountains. The Lodge’s interior garden, apart from the beautiful panoramic view, has a variety of local flowers and orchids. The rooms are comfortable and attractively designed but not large by today’s deluxe hotel standards. All rooms come standard with normal facilities. Bookings are essential.

The overnight tariff includes meals and there are both formal and buffet dining options.

As we said earlier what makes the Sanctuary Lodge special is not so much hotel itself, though you will be quite comfortable there: its the location. You are right at the site you can have the whole city of Machu Picchu almost to yourself before the crowds arrive at 10am and after they all leave at 4pm. Its a steep, narrow track but climbing to the top Huanya Picchu - the peak in all the pictures - will give you a literal birdseye view as dawn breaks over the Machu Picchu site. Remember the Inca’s worshiped the sun and built their ceremonial sites to be most spectacular at dawn and dusk: just when the vast majority of visitors don’t see them. From the peak of the Huayna Picchu, situated opposite Machu Picchu, there is a panoramic view of the imposing spread of ruins and the Urubamba Valley.

Alternatively walk the other way to the start of the Inca trail to admire the view back across the Machu Picchu ruins with Huanya Picchu in the background. Staying on site and not having to leave to catch the last bus down the hill means that anyone with average fitness can do both walks in the day.

Even if you don’t normally stay a luxury hotels: consider springing for the Sanctuary Lodge at Machu Picchu, it really is a unique property and is well worth the money.

A beautiful luxury train, to a world-famous destination, through some spectacular scenery: what could be wrong with this scenario; well there is a big flaw.

The luxury Hiram Bingham train runs from Cuzco to Machu Picchu daily: making the 7 hour return day trip in fantastic comfort. The train is run by the well known 5 star rail group Orient Express and this is by far the best train in Peru, quite possibly South America. Although the 112km trip from Cuzco to Machu Picchu is not a long train journey, it certainly rates as one of the most scenic railroads in the world.

The Hiram Bingham train is named for the American professor who “discovered” the site in 1911. In reality the local farmers were always aware of the site and it was they who guided Bingham. Bingham was looking for the mythical Inca treasure: but in fact the Machu Picchu site is really a treasure: just not of the gold Bingham had in mind, and little too big to ship home, luckily for the Peruvians.

The Hiram Bingham train is designed in the style of a 1920’s rail experience with blue and gold Pullman style carriages fitted out in paneled wood with brocade upholstery featuring heavily in the dining cars. The train includes two Dining Cars, an Observation Bar Car and a Kitchen Car to serve the 84 passengers it has the capacity to carry.

The passengers board in Cuzco at around 9:00am and then are served brunch as they admire the spectacular Sacred Valley as the Urubamba River valley has been prosaically re-named. Now there are regular trains running this route which can be had for only a few dollars, and you will certainly get to experience a slice of Peruvian life that the Hiram Bingham Train (no chickens on the Orient Express fleet!). However the Hiram Bingham travels slowly through well-cleaned windows and you will definitely see a lot more of the scenery thanks to these innovations, and the lack of standing passengers.

The day tour arrives at Aqua Calientes around midday. The train can’t reach the actual Machu Picchu site: which is high above the valley floor, and a transfer is required my mini-bus. With pre-booked tickets you skip the tours and a guided tour of the site is included in the price. According to Orient Express:
“After the guided tour, guests are given the choice to wander alone through this fascinating World Heritage site, or to enjoy Afternoon Tea at the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge, the Orient-Express hotel located right at the entrance to the citadel”

Therein is my problem with the day trip to Machu Picchu. It is frankly an annoying tease.

The site is worth a whole day at least. You could spend a week in Cuzco and not run out of things to do. Machu Picchu is an amazing collection of well preserved Inca ruins, but in addition it is located in one of the most attractive locations in the world. And at an altitude of 2300 metres so you can watch the weather move in from below. Add a few colourful locals and lamas for photographic opportunities.

Imagine if the Pompeii was located on the a mountain ridge, which drops away to two beautiful valleys, and up to two spectacular mountain peaks, Take Pompeii and and relocate in a remote beautiful valley at altitude: take several airplane transfers to get there and then spend only a few hours at the site? Wasting some of that time taking tea? Do yourself a favour arrange your trip to Cuzco to include overnight at the Machu Picchu site. Don’t settle for the movie’s trailer: watch the whole show!